Burda Easy 01/14 Jacket

In the run up to Xmas Burda were putting up a special advent deal each day.  They offered this pattern free, it was originally in BurdaEasy 01/2014, 1c.

It comes with welt pockets, as shown, patch pockets and a short sleeve version.  I used the long sleeve version with patch pockets.

 

 

This was my first attempt at  using corduroy.  Now corduroy should always be cut on the nap - all fabric pieces pointing in the same direction.  It is kind of like stroking a cat.  Stroke the cat one way and all their fur will lie in the same direction.  However if you stroke part of the cats back toward the tail, and part to the head it will lie in different directions and look different.  The same is true of materials like corduroy and velvet.  I had bought my corduroy on special and it was a fairly narrow width.  This meant I was just too short to cut all the pieces on the same nap.  However I was determined to use this fabric with this pattern regardless.  I had to place the front sleeve pieces the wrong way up.  I also accidentally (my fault entirely, nothing to do with fabric shortage), placed the pocket pieces the wrong way around.   However I think I will probably be the only one who notices the error, or possibly other sewers.

The pattern was simple to make. However I did have problems when I started.  The first thing to be made was the pockets.  I found the corduroy moved around so much it was difficult to line them up properly.  Even pinning they shifted.  So I switched to the walking foot on my sewing machine.  I'd say this is essential as this made things so much easier.

Here are some other views of it.

 

 

As it is unlined I wanted it reasonably attractive on the inside, so finished with a Hong Kong seam finish.  I made the bias binding from leftover rayon that was used to line my voile dress.

As I was making this I had to wonder about my timing.  It is the middle of summer and temperature in the high  20's with humidity in the 90 - 100%.  I won't be able to wear this for a few months.

Anyway, next to be made is a sleeveless shift dress that will be perfect for summer.

A special friend gave me a heart blackboard on the weekend.  It now hangs in my sewing room, with Tim Gunn's famous words for inspiration.

Peg Bag and StyleArc Barb pants

Earlier this week I was hanging out washing and my plastic peg bucket broke.  Yes, pegs all over the ground.  These plastic buckets never last very long, so I decided it was time to put my sewing to a practical use and went looking for free peg bag patterns.  I found this lovely Dirndl clothespin bag here.  I used left over fabric from my gingham shirt and red dress and some trim from my crazy quilting to make this.

Cute, practical and will last a long time.  The 'apron' in the front is another pocket.

I've been wanting a trouser pattern that I can use again and again.  So far my trouser making efforts haven't been very successful as the crotch never seems to fit correctly.  After reading reviews on Pattern Review the StyleArc Barbs pattern seemed very popular and consensus seems to be they are a good fit.  Best of all the pattern is a free download.  You select the size you want, and they send that size, as well as the size on either side.  So I selected size 14 and was sent patterns for sizes 12, 14 and 16.

I used size 14.  The pattern calls for a stretch fabric, recommending bengaline.  I bought some cotton sateen and bengaline from Spotlight to use.  For my first effort I used the cotton sateen.  For a while I've been wanting a pair of patterned trousers.  I've always been very conservative with trousers going for plain colours, usually black or navy, so high time to break out of my corporate mind- set and go with something different.

Here they are:

I'm very happy with these. They were super easy to make as they are just an elastic waist.  They are a great fit, if anything a bit long in the leg, next time I'll shorten them a couple of inches.  At 5'9" it's very unusual for me to need to shorten anything, I usually need to lengthen.  The elastic was meant to be 5cm wide. I only had 2cm and that is fine, though a bit wider would be better.


I did change the way the waistband is constructed.  The pattern said to insert the elastic into the waistband and then attach the waistband to the pants.  I attached the outer side of the waistband to the pants, inserted the elastic, stitching down at each quarter, then sewed down the inner side of the waistband to the pants.   I felt this would allow me to control where the elastic sat better.  I've had RTW elastic waisted pants where the elastic has twisted inside the waistband and didn't want that happening.

Dress finish, embroidery finish, Xmas gifts, 2015 review and looking ahead to 2016

Happy New Year to all

Now that Christmas gifts are all given I can show some photos of mug rugs that were given as gifts.  I put these inside coffee mugs along with some biscuits.

 

 

 

 

 

 These were fun to make and I spent a lot of time making them to each persons interests.  I do like these, but have yet to make myself one.

 

I also finished my embroidery project.  This was an owl from the adult colouring book Enchanted Garden.  I adapted it to an embroidery design and finished it with some crazy quilting in a hexagon shape.  At the moment this is hanging on the wall of my sewing room.  Hopefully one day, more hexies will be added and I'll make a quilt out of them.  That is well off in the future though.

 

 

I made this beaded paisley a few months ago and have been waiting for the right place for it.  It seemed to belong with Mr Owl. In the top photo you can see it on the bottom left.  Here is a close up.

 

 

I finished a dress.  This has been on my wanting to do list for a long time.  It is a Kwik Sew pattern #4068.  I like pockets so I added a couple of in-seam pockets on the side.  It is a lot lower at the front than I am comfortable with, so I'll need to wear a cami under it.  If I make it again I'll want to redraft the neckline to make it at least a couple of inches higher.  Also it has elastic on the sleeves to create a gathered effect, which is OK, however I'd probably not bother with that again as I think ordinary sleeves would be fine.

 I was very happy with how the skirt was gathered.  I used the technique shown here.  In brief I used the same settings given in the tutorial,  using 4 threads on overlocker,  left needle tension at 9, right needle tension at 7 and differential feed set at 2.  It worked a treat and so much easier than pulling up gathering threads sewn on a sewing machine.  If you use this technique just remember to mark your gathering fabric before overlocking, and mark the fabric the gathers are to attach to at the same points.  I marked at each quarter of the garment on both the skirt and the bodice, then all I had to do was match the markings and gently pull the gathers to match the bodice.

 

 

 



Rather than using a normal zipper I used an invisible zip.  As you can see it wasn't quite perfect as some of the zipper can be seen where the bodice and skirt meet.

 

You may notice this is the first time I've modelled my garments.  It finally clicked in my brain that the camera on my tablet has a time delay so I can set it up on a table, put the timer on, and on selfie mode and have time to pose before the photo clicks.  From now on, expect to see more of me (not necessarily a good thing!).

 

Now is a good time to reflect on how far I've come in 2015.   I've learned to sew invisible zippers, patch pocket, in seam pockets, rouleau loops, collars, lining, sewed buttonholes and buttons with the sewing machine and learned to use an overlocker.  For 2015 I've completed 30 garments, a chart is on my 2015 finishes page showing types of garments and pattern company.

 

Looking ahead to 2016 I still have a lot to learn.  I'm wary of setting goals, as this is my hobby so I should enjoy it and not feel as if I have to do something just because I set a target.  However, having said that this year I would like to;

 

1. Consider what is needed in my wardrobe and try to pick things that will work, both in terms of fabric and design.  I made a lovely lavender coloured linen jacket, but lavender doesn't go with anything so I've never worn it.  I want to avoid more of these errors.  Maybe concentrate on blues and reds as I seem to gravitate towards these colours.
2. My winter wardrobe is getting tired, my trackpants and sweatshirts could do with replacing, so come winter that is what I need.
3. Experiment with more BurdaStyle patterns for 'something different'.
4. Find a trouser pattern for a TNT and make some trousers.  So far, apart from Culottes, I 've not had any luck with finding a trouser pattern that suits or fits.   I'm hoping StyleArc's giveaway Barbs pants will be the one.
5. Try to fabric shop only for specific patterns.  However no shame in failing this if fabric is at bargain prices. 
6. Post reviews on Pattern Review.  I love reading other peoples reviews, seeing how they found the pattern and what fabric they used, so time to start giving back.
7. I've used this blog as a means of recording what I've done for myself.  I need to try and include more information so others can enjoy reading it.  Again time to give back, as I enjoy reading other folks blogs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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