BurdaStyle 2/16 121 High collar sweatshirt, with how I did my zippers, Style Arc Barb pants

After a long summer, we've made a quick transition to winter.  Just a couple of weeks ago temperatures were in the mid twenties, but the last week has been raining and temperature down to around 19C.  Time to get the winter wardrobe started.

I've had my eye on this sweatshirt even before the magazine became available here in New Zealand.  I got some lovely orange sweatshirt fabric and was ready to start.  First of all, here is the completed garment.

I love how you can adjust the zip lengths to change how the collar looks.

Love the pockets as well. 

 

After reading other reviews it seems the instructions for the zippers were hard to follow.  As I've made a few bags, the instructions were very similar to inserting a zip pocket into a bag.   I practiced first on some scraps of fabric, but  when it came to doing the garment the first zip went in perfectly but I struggled to get the second zip looking neat.  As I believe in learning from my mistakes, and also because I want to make this again, after I had finished I practiced again on some scraps and put a tutorial together.

ETA:  I've found this tutorial from Tilly and the buttons for an exposed zip insertion that I think would work better.  She uses interfacing rather than lining which I think would be better as would give more support.

1. Pin lining to fabric right sides together.  Put these so the lining is centred on the slit mark.  If using a lining that frays easily, use pinking shears to cut out the 4cm square.  Instructions are to sew 5mm next to the seam.  It doesn't say if this is closest to the edge of fabric or further away.  The diagram provided appears to show the stitching line as being further away, so for a 5/8" seam it would be 6.5/8" from edge of fabric  (5mm= 1.5/8").  OK, I know there is no such thing as a 1.5/8" but it's too hard to convert to 16th's.  Or in other words 6.5/8" is between 3/4" and 7/8".  However if you sew the lining at 6.5/8" the lining will be exposed when you sew the zip in at 5/8".  So I decided to interpret this as sew at 3.5/8" from edge of fabric.

It also doesn't say how far from the slit line the horizontal line should be sewn.  It needs to be a reasonable distance so raw edges of lining don't poke through when it is turned to the inside, so I sewed the horizontal line at 5/8" below slit mark.

2. Snip through both fabric and lining on the diagonal, right into the corner without cutting threads

3. Fold lining to inside and press so you get a nice sharp edge.

Right side fabric

wrong side fabric

 4. Do the same for all 4 pieces of lining.  It is essential that they match up, so check the side fronts and centre front match before sewing the lining and again, before snipping. When the seams are sewn you want a nice U shape.

5. Pin centre front and side front together and sew 5/8" seam from hem to lining.

6.  Instructions say to go on to stitch lining together.  Where??  After much practice I figured the only place you could sew the lining together was on the side running parallel to the seam.

7.  This now gives a nice casing for the bottom of the zip to sit in.  The bottom of the lining is open, so the ends of the tape can sit in there without twisting up.  When inserting the zip, this can be stitched at the 5/8" seam without the lining showing on the right side.

Right side fabric

wrong side fabric with ends of zip tape inserted.

8.  Insert the zip as usual.

When finished the ends of the zipper tape can be sewn to the seam allowance and lining, and to the casing part of the lining.

The fabric for my sweatshirt was from Spotlight and I bought 2m x 148cm for $12.33.  The pattern called for 2.05m x 130cm.  As my fabric was a bit wider I thought I'd get the pattern cut out OK, however I had to be very imaginative with my placement of pattern pieces and only just managed to get everything.  Next time, get 2.2metres.

Also ready for winter are another pair of Barb pants by StyleArc.  These are my 4th pair of Barb pants.  They are a teal coloured ponte, from Spotlight 2m x 147cm for $21.58.  I didn't need all that fabric so have .85metres remaining.  These will be for lounging around the house.  I'm about to start my 5th pair in a mustard ponte.