I'm hoping to get a blueprint so I have some go-to woven trousers, similar to my StyleArc Barb pants for stretch fabric. I first made a muslin. RTW pants are always to big across the waist for me if they fit at the hips, so I knew I would probably need to make an adjustment for that. The pants have welt pockets which I have never made before, so I also wanted to practice those. After making the muslin I discovered I needed to reduce at the waist by 1/2" on front and back pieces, tapering back to the side seam 3" below the top of the pattern piece. There are already darts on the pattern, so that eliminates back gaping. I also felt the welt pockets were in an uncomfortable place. They were too far forward - towards the tummy and too low down. None of the photos in the magazine actually show the welt pockets, the top part of the pants are all covered by tops. I moved the welts 1/2"closer to the side seam and 1/2" higher. Even though I am 5'9" and Burda design for 5'7" I found the pants too long. and ended up shortening the length by 2 1/5" and sewing at 1" instead of the 1 5/8" recommended, so effectively shortened by 2"
Once I was satisfied with the muslin I went ahead and made the pants. However I found once I'd made them they were too tight across the back buttocks and under the groin. The muslin were fine, so not sure what happened. I ended up letting out part of the crotch seam to 1/4" seam allowance. Next time I make these I will try a crotch adjustment as shown in the video by Professor Pincushion. The waist is also a wee bit snug, so I may need to let this out by 1/4".
Here is a close up of the welt pocket. I also really like the deep, shaped waistband and the belt loops - another first.
On the whole I am really happy with these pants. I just have to hope I don't split them when I sit down!
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