Monday, 18 September 2017

Jalie Jeans 2908 - second pair.

I've been busy making Christmas presents, but I did manage to make another pair of jeans.  This time I changed the leg to straight leg instead of bootcut and I added a 1/4" extra at both inner and outer thighs.  These are soo comfortable.

They are exactly the same as the others, apart from the cut.  Same colour denim, same embroidery on the back pockets.  I want to do a denim jacket and want embroidery to match when wearing jeans and jacket.

These took me around 18 hours over 8 days.

Saturday, 2 September 2017

My first Vogue pattern - 9227

I ordered some Vogue patterns a few weeks ago when they were on sale.  When on sale they are cheaper to buy from the US than from NZ, even with the cost of posting. 2 are summer patterns, but one is a long sleeve knit, perfect for spring when it can still be a bit cool.

I was keen to try my first one - Vogue 9227.

The fabric was a jersey from Morelands Fabrics.  When I saw the fabric I knew it was perfect for this top as the stripes would really show up well.  The collar and button band were a black ponte remnant left over from a previous project.

The button band took me forever to correctly place the buttons.  At the neck, instead of a button I used a press stud and sewed a button on the outside.  I knew my machine would not be able to cope with making a buttonhole through all the fabric that sits inside the neckband there.   I also wasn't satisified with the tiny bit of gaping that remained at the buttonband, so I slipstitched from the armscye to the third button.  As it is  a jersey I don't need all that space to get it on and off.  After all the effort I am pleased with the way it looks.

This certainly wasn't a quick sew, it took me 12 hours from cutting to finishing, compared to the last Lisbon cardigan that took me 4 hours.  However it is a smart t-shirt type top.

Alterations I made to construction were:

  • Added buttonholes to buttonband before attaching to bodice
  • Press stud at neck edge and sewed button on top
  • slip stitched button band from armscye to 3rd button
  • 3" sleeve hems!
  • 1/2" back hem - had to taper side fronts to line up at back hem

There are a few changes I would make next time:

  • Add 1 - 2" to length
  • Shorten sleeves 1" ( had to do a whopping 3" hem)
  • Narrow shoulder adjustment - 1/2"

There are a few other variations of this pattern that I might try.

The other Vogue patterns I bought were:
There are a couple of variations, including this one with short sleeves.  I've bought a couple of different shades of pink linen for this.

This dress, also with variations, with or without roll collar, short sleeves or sleeveless.

I particularly like the pleated skirt on this, so may attempt to make a skirt on it's own.  As suggested in the pattern you can use a different colour for the top to create a skirt/top separate look.  I've bought 3 (!) pieces of cotton sateen for this.  2 of the fabrics I'm not sure of, while one is a black and red very fine check.  I may use one of them to make a skirt and different colour top, I'm thinking an embroidered eyelet or something similar for the top part.

Anyway summer sewing is still a while off, as spring has just sprung so a few more spring items are needed including more jeans, denim jacket and a flannel shirt.

Wednesday, 30 August 2017

merino lisbon cardigan

I was lucky enough to find some lovely merino wool on sale.  Perfect for my next Lisbon.

I once again struck problems with my overlocker and buttonhole foot on sewing machine.  This time my overlocker refused to move over the fabric creating a huge nest which had to be cut out of the throat plate leaving a big hole in the button band.   I didn't have enough fabric to cut another band on the grain so had to cut another band against the grain.   Unfortunately this really stretched when cut this way resulting  in the right side being about an inch longer than the left.  I had to do a tuck under the right side to bring it even with the left.  Not ideal as the bottom bands don't match up now, but it's not really noticeable in this fabric.  Also I tried sewing the top and bottom buttonholes before attaching them to the fronts, but this still didn't work and I ended up making buttonholes on the machine.

Here is how I made my buttonholes.  Straight stich up both sides of button holes.  Zig zag up both side of button holes. Go back and forward a few times with a straight stitch at the top and bottom.  It needs very accurate sewing but is better than the foot sticking and creating a nest.   Next time I might try the embroidery machine.

The merino is lovely and warm and I've worn it almost constantly since making it.   I love the cardigan, shame about my machines messing it up.  I will definitely be making more of these.

Thursday, 24 August 2017

Itch to stitch Lisbon and Style Arc Barb pants

I've been doing some Xmas sewing for gifts.  I won't be showing these until they are given to the reciptients though.

Also I've done a couple of quick to sew items.

First up was yet another pair of Style Arc Barb pants.  See top photo, photo bombed by Sandy.  I love how quickly these sew up, about 2 1/2 hours from cutting to wearing.  I hear of people that can whip things up in an hour, not me.  Believe me 2 1/2 hours is fast for me.

Fabric was from the Hospice shop.  I had about 1.5 metres and they cost just $5.

Next was my first Itch to Stitch pattern - the Lisbon cardigan.  I made this out of a blue ponte from Spotlight.  I had a 3 metre by 150cm length and the cardigan used about 1.2 metres.  I made a size 8, however the ponte probably didn't have enough stretch as required by the pattern, so it is just a wee bit tight across the bust.  Next time I should go for a size 10 if using ponte, size 8 will be fine for anything with more stretch.

This one also came together really quickly - about 6 hours from cutting to wearing.  However I must have spent an hour of that time fiddling with the darn overlocker.  I was really happy with how it was turning out, but then I had machine malfunctions - both the overlocker and sewing machine.  The first problem was attaching the bands to the jacket fronts.  I tried to do it with just the overlocker and on both bands it decided to chew the beginning of the bands and refused to move over the seams resulting in the sewing repeatedly over the same part of the band.  At the same time it moved the bands out of alignment with the front of the garment.  They had matched perfectly when pinning.  I ended up having to do a weird tuck at the tops of the bands to get them to align (sort of) with the neck band.

The second problem was the sewing machine.  It just refused to sew the buttonholes at top and bottom, the buttonhole foot would not move over the seams, resulting in an absolute mess.   When doing the top buttonhole it stitched the first side of the buttonhole and stuck at the top.  I had to start again moving the buttonhole to the right and dragging it instead of letting it feed, resulting in an unsightly row of half a buttonhole.  At the bottom the same thing started happening but it just created a big knot.  I ended up moving the buttonhole higher than it should be.  As they are so densely sewn and the needle kept repeating in the same spot they are impossible to rip out without damaging the fabric.   Sadly, what could have been a lovely cardigan is now relegated to being worn around the house.

However if won't put me off, the pattern itself is lovely and my machine issues weren't the patterns fault.  I've already got 3 pieces of fabric earmarked for more Lisbons.

Next time I will sew the top and bottom buttonholes to the bands first.  Then sew the bands to the jacket with the sewing machine, and then overlock the seams.

top buttonhole with weird tuck and that extra line of half a buttonhole

Bottom buttonhole, too high and ugly knot beneath it.

Saturday, 5 August 2017

Biker Jacket Burda 1/17 113B, hand sanitiser

I've wanted to make a moto or biker jacket for a while.  I'd intended to use leather from jackets from op-shops, but 3 jackets wasn't enough fabric as lapels, pockets, seams got in the way.  So I decided on a suede version and used buttersuede from Spotlight.

Here is my jacket.

It is lined with blue satin.  I made a size 42, grading to 44 at waist.  I'm very happy with how it turned out - except it is a bit tight across the back shoulders.  If I do it again I should go with a size 44.

The pattern is rated for advanced sewers but the magazine has step by step sewing lesson.  However I found these instructions to be a waste of time.  There are 24 steps and from step 17 onwards it felt like they'd run out of patience in writing the instructions.   The instructions for the lining were vague at best, misleading at worst.   I feel you should to be familiar with making a fully lined jacket before tackling this.

On the embroidery machine has been a hand sanitiser holder.  Made with leather from one of those leather op-shop jackets.

Monday, 24 July 2017

Laundry Day T and leather handbag

Despite having a flu injection   I managed to fall victim to the flu.  There is a particularly nasty strain doing the rounds that wasn't covered by the vaccine.  This had me down and out for 10 days.  I basically used all this time searching on the internet for more sewing patterns.

Once I started feeling capable of doing something I wanted some quick fixes.  So using up fabric stash and remnants I downloaded Love Notions free Laundry Day T shirt.  If you join their Facebook group you get a code to download the design for free.

This pattern is so versatile. It has various sleeve lengths - sleeveless tank, short sleeves, above elbow, long.  Necklines are choice of round, V or cowl and length can be regular T, tunic or even dress.

The first one used up some fabric from my stash.  I thought this was a t-shirt fabric but when I washed it realised it is a very fine wool.  I embroidered some strawberries to brighten up the grey a bit.  The second one I decided to convert to a cold shoulder T.  This fabric was a remnant left over from a previous make.  I basically just chopped the top 1 1/2" off the top of the sleeve pattern and rounded it out by trimming another 1/2" at the centre sleeve.  To finish I just turned the edges under and top-stitched.

These were both super quick makes, just 2 - 2 1/2 hours.

I'd bought some leather coats at the Salvation Army stores and a friend bought me another leather coat from another Salvation Army as she knew I wanted the leather to make bags.  So this is my first leather bag.  The design is from Kreative Kiwi.  I love how this has turned out.  The leather was easier to work with than I thought and is so soft.  It is fully lined with pockets on the inside.  The only change I made was to add a magnetic snap closure.