Sunday, 1 October 2017

Bonn shirt - Itch to stitch

I made a flannel shirt last year and it is so useful, nice and warm for the in-between weather we are experiencing in spring.  They are also handy for wearing as a light weight jacket over a t-shirt. One day when I was out recently I noticed a lot of people wearing plaid flannel shirts.  For this version I decided to make my first Bonn shirt.

It has a mandarin collar, rather than the usual collar.  I like it!  I did make a boo-boo when cutting out the pattern.  I looked at the pattern and made size 8, grading to a size 12 at hips.   I was getting over a bout of flu - my second this year! and not paying enough attention to my actual size.  Consequently the size 8 is a fraction too small, as I should have gone with a size 10.  To get around it, I shortened the bust darts, and now it fits fine.  The apex sits a bit high though, so next time I will need to shorten the bust dart and lower around 1 -  1 1/2 inches.

The only other change I made was to add 1" to the length above the waist.

I am pretty pleased with my pattern matching.  I spent a loooong time working on getting this right - it took me 2 hours to cut out 8 pattern pieces, but it was worth it.  Also the flannel was horrid for transferring markings.  In the end I used painters tape, added it to where the marks were and put the marks on top.  The tape can be easily removed without leaving any residue.  From cutting out, to finishing it took me about 12 hours.  I reckon without pattern matching and with a fabric that can easily be marked I could do it in about 10 hours.  A short sleeve version, without sleeve plackets and sleeve pleats would be even less time.

I am happy with this and will be making more using the other sleeve variations that come with the pattern.  I may also make the dress shirt version.  I've bought some lovely patterned tencel that I will use for either this or the Beausoleil dress- another Itch to stitch pattern.

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