Saturday, 24 September 2016

Self drafted kimono/waterfall drape top with tutorial

About a year ago I bought this beautiful polyester crepe with flower borders running along both selvedges.  When I bought it the intent was to make a kimono type top however with the traditional patterns I couldn't figure out how to get the pattern positioned to show off the flowers, so it sat in a cupboard.

On Friday I went out with my mother and we called in at Ballentynes Fashion Central.  In there they had some waterfall tops, labelled as kimonos.  When I looked at them, they were just a rectangle of fabric with rectangular holes in for the armholes, all just finished with an overlocked rolled hem. Not really kimonos at all, more like waterfall tops.   Easy as to make.  Unfortunately I didn't have a tape measure with me (yep I usually carry one!) so had to eyeball the sizes for the armholes and how far from the top they were.

So Saturday it was my mission to make one. 

 All I needed to work out was the size of the armholes, how far apart to space them and how far down the fabric to place them.I tested size and placement first on some scraps of fabric. Once I'd got the armholes figured out, the rest is easy; overlock the edges cut out and overlock the armholes.  

  I did a tutorial as I went along, so here goes

1m - 1.4m of fine fabric.  Width anywhere from 112cm to 150cm. I used polyester crepe, could use chiffon, or a large scarf
Matching Thread
Small amount of card for template, I used back of a cereal carton

The fabric I had was 1.4metres by 150cm.  It could be done with less fabric,  the placement of the armholes from the top of the fabric would need to be adjusted.  I also wanted the back to end below my bottom, so again by adjusting the placement of the armholes, this can be raised or lowered as desired.

First make a template for the armholes 18cm deep by 8cm. Round the corners from 3cm on the longer edges to 2cm on the shorter edges.  If you want deep armholes, then this could be lengthened to around 22cm
Finish all the edges on the overlocker with a rolled hemming stitch, trimming away selvedges and frayed edges

Fold fabric in half lengthwise to find the centre back.
Measure desired depth of armholes from top of fabric to where the top of the armholes will be.  I measured down 65cm. Place pin at mark
Measure in from centre back to where inner side armhole will be.  I wanted a distance between my armholes of 54 cm. so measured in 27cm (fabric is folded in half).  This measurement gives plenty of ease for a swinging back and going over clothes. Place pin at mark.
Place template between pins.

As the fabric is fine and shifts very easily, use plenty of weights.  I also used painters tape to hold the template to the fabric.  Cut very carefully around the template.
Take to overlocker and do rolled hemming stitch around the armholes.

Put on and wear with pride!

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