Monday, 8 May 2017

BurdaStyle 10/16 111 Trousers

I've been wanting a smart pair of woven trousers.  I got some gabardine from Spotlights specials table in an aubergine colour that was crying out for trousers.  I settled on BurdaStyle 10/16 #111.

I'm hoping to get a blueprint so I have some go-to woven trousers, similar to my StyleArc Barb pants for stretch fabric.  I first made a muslin.  RTW pants are always to big across the waist for me if they fit at the hips, so I knew I would probably need to make an adjustment for that.   The pants have welt pockets which I have never made before, so I also wanted to practice those.  After making the muslin I discovered I needed to reduce at the waist by 1/2" on front and back pieces, tapering back to the side seam 3" below the top of the pattern piece.  There are already darts on the pattern, so that eliminates back gaping.  I also felt the welt pockets were in an uncomfortable place.  They were too far forward - towards the tummy and too low down.  None of the photos in the magazine actually show the welt pockets, the top part of the pants are all covered by tops.   I moved the welts 1/2"closer to the side seam and 1/2" higher.  Even though I am 5'9" and Burda design for 5'7" I found the pants too long.  and ended up shortening the length by 2 1/5" and sewing at 1" instead of the 1 5/8" recommended, so effectively shortened by 2"

Once I was satisfied with the muslin I went ahead and made the pants.  However I found once I'd made them they were too tight across the back buttocks and under the groin.  The muslin were fine, so not sure what happened.  I ended up letting out part of the crotch seam to 1/4" seam allowance.  Next time I make these I will try a crotch adjustment as shown in the video by Professor Pincushion.  The waist is also a wee bit snug, so I may need to let this out by 1/4".

Here is a close up of the welt pocket.  I also really like the deep, shaped waistband and the belt loops - another first.

On the whole I am really happy with these pants.  I just have to hope I don't split them when I sit down!

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